Cycling in Georgia - how to plan a bike tour through the Caucasus
Cycling in Georgia and the Caucasus - mountain routes, the best season, roads and traffic, where to sleep, food and supplies, and tips for your tour.
Cycling in Georgia means riding between the Greater Caucasus in the north and the Lesser Caucasus in the south, through wine valleys, old monasteries and mountain villages, with the Black Sea on one side and the dry east on the other. It is a compact country, so you can see a lot in a few weeks, but the mountain roads are steep and main roads can be busy. Here is what you need to know to plan a bike tour through Georgia.
Is Georgia a good country for cycling?
Georgia is popular with bicycle tourers, both as a destination and as a stage on the overland route between Europe and Central Asia. The landscapes change fast: subtropical coast around Batumi, green hills in the west, the Kakheti wine region in the east and high mountains with glaciers in the north.
Many cyclists mention the hospitality, from invitations for a meal to a glass of homemade wine or chacha. The food is a highlight too: khachapuri (cheese bread), khinkali (dumplings) and plenty of fresh vegetables and fruit in season.
The flip side is traffic. Driving can be fast and aggressive, especially on the main east-west highway and on the road between Tbilisi and the Russian border. Most cyclists try to avoid these roads where possible.
Which are the best cycling routes in Georgia?
The Greater Caucasus valleys
The big mountain valleys in the north are the reason many cyclists come. Svaneti, reached from Zugdidi up to Mestia, has its famous medieval defence towers and long climbs. Further east, routes towards Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) and the remote regions of Tusheti and Khevsureti offer spectacular scenery. Some of these roads are unpaved, very steep or only open in summer; the road into Tusheti in particular is known as a demanding mountain track. Check the current road conditions before you set off.
Kakheti and the east
East of Tbilisi, Kakheti is a wine region with rolling hills, vineyards and monasteries, and gentler riding. It makes a good loop from the capital and combines well with the semi-desert landscapes near the Azerbaijani border.
The Lesser Caucasus and the south
Southern Georgia, around the volcanic plateau of Javakheti and towards Armenia, is high, open and quiet. It is a good way to ride on to Armenia, but the weather on the plateau can change quickly.
Coming from Turkey
Many tourers enter Georgia from Turkey along the Black Sea coast near Batumi, often after riding through Turkey. From there you can head inland towards Kutaisi and the mountains.
When is the best time to go cycling in Georgia?
Late spring and early autumn are usually the most pleasant. In spring, high mountain passes and some mountain roads may still be closed by snow, while summer can be hot in the lowlands and around Tbilisi but ideal in the high valleys. Autumn brings the grape harvest and stable weather, though nights in the mountains get cold early.
Remote mountain roads, such as the one into Tusheti, are typically open only for a few months a year. Opening dates depend on the snow, so check locally before you plan your route around them.
Roads, bike shops and practical tips
- Road surfaces vary. Main roads are mostly paved; mountain roads can be rough asphalt, gravel or dirt. Wider tyres make life easier if you plan to ride the high valleys.
- Bike parts. Tbilisi has bike shops, but outside the capital and a few larger towns, parts for touring bikes are hard to find. Carry spare tubes, tyres, brake pads and the tools to fix your own bike.
- Dogs. Shepherd dogs in the mountains can be protective of their flocks. Slow down, keep your distance from herds and get off your bike if needed.
- Language. Georgian has its own alphabet. Russian is widely understood among older people, and younger people in cities often speak some English.
- Money. ATMs are common in towns, but carry cash for the mountains and small villages.
Where to sleep on a bike tour in Georgia
Guesthouses are the most common option, especially in the mountains and wine regions, and are often family-run with dinner included. In cities you will find hostels and hotels.
Many cyclists also camp, both at campsites and in the wild. Wild camping is widely practised by touring cyclists in Georgia, but rules for national parks and protected areas can differ, so check the current rules and ask permission near houses or farmland. You can also connect with local and travelling cyclists who host each other on Cycle Planet once you create an account.
Guesthouses, springs and camp spots that other cyclists recommend are on the map with points of interest. If you find a good place that is not on it yet, add it for the next cyclist.
Frequently asked questions
Do you need a visa to cycle in Georgia?
Many nationalities can enter Georgia without a visa for a fairly long stay, but the rules depend on your passport and can change. Check the official Georgian government information or the embassy, and see the Georgia country page for notes from other cyclists.
How many days do you need to cycle through Georgia?
The country is small, so a crossing from the Black Sea to the Azerbaijani border takes about one to two weeks. If you want to ride into the mountain valleys as well, plan three weeks or more.
Is it safe to cycle in Georgia?
Cyclists generally describe Georgia as safe and friendly. The biggest risk is traffic on busy main roads. Check your government's travel advice, especially for regions near the borders with Russian-occupied areas, which you should not try to enter.
Where can you go after Georgia?
Many tourers continue to Armenia or Azerbaijan and then on to Central Asia. If that is your plan, read our guide to bike touring in Kyrgyzstan.
Plan your Georgia tour
Cycling in Georgia combines the Caucasus mountains, good food and warm hospitality in a small, varied country. Plan around the season in the mountains and avoid the busiest roads where you can. For visa basics, safety notes and tips from other cyclists, start on the Georgia country page.